The fish counter

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At one end of the deli counter lies the caviar and smoked fish. Meesha picked up a whole, cold-smoked mackerel for us to sample later, but there were many other varieties including salmon and tiny salted fish of indeterminable pedigree that he told me are very popular as a beer-drinking snack. You can also buy many packaged versions of these fishes that are cheaper but considerably harder in texture.

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